After bringing us to her Copenhagen home last season with a show held on the charming cobbled street on which she lives, Stine Goya opted to give us insight into her work life this time around. She presented her fall 2024 collection inside the brand’s atelier.
The designer commissioned British-born, Copenhagen-based artist David Risley to paint portraits of her team, from senior print designer Blanca to pattern maker Roberto. The resulting artworks were hung on the studio walls, ensuring that those working behind-the-scenes were front of mind (later Goya’s team came out for a bow, dressed in brightly-colored shirts).
Goya used Risley’s work as a starting point for the collection, even transposing the artist’s painting of the brand’s signature clog—inspired by Delacroix’s Women of Algiers—onto a tunic dress. Hand-drawn prints of the staircase leading up to the atelier and the table in the showroom also made their way into the collection, providing a very literal take on the theme.
The designer reiterated her interest in color with a voiceover at the start of the show, which saw her reading out her manifesto. “Colors have always been at the core of my creativity,” she said. “They define me as a designer and, in many ways, as a person.” While Goya may be best known for her use of pastel shades, this season featured a moodier palette, from ochre red to chocolate brown—perhaps a sign of evolution as the brand expands globally.
Like many contemporary designers, Goya is increasingly focused on creating a full wardrobe for her customers, from denim to tailoring. The most successful pieces offered subtle twists on classic staples: a structured two-in-one blazer and shirt, and a pinstripe skirt with a floral print peeking through.
For Stine Goya’s core customer base, the checkerboard knits, jacquards, and sequins are likely to appeal. Retaining that brand DNA will be crucial as the designer—and her atelier—moves forward.