David Koma’s fondness for birds and feathers has become ubiquitous in his designs. However for pre-fall, while still drawing inspiration from avian elements, he deviated from his usual practice of dedicating his collection to a single muse. Instead, he chose to honor the high-society women of New York in the mid-’60s, whom Truman Capote famously dubbed “the Swans.” This coterie of influential characters—including Lee Radziwill, Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, and Slim Keith—was strikingly beautiful and fabulously wealthy. As director Ryan Murphy prepares to release the second season of the anthology television series Feud on the same subject—titled Feud: Capote vs. the Swans, starring Naomi Watts and Chloë Sevigny—the designer contemplated how to reinterpret this glamorous world for the Koma girl of today.
The collection offers distinct juxtapositions, from its contrasting palette to classic, ladylike accents taking a daring, sultry turn. Take, for instance, the liquid jersey dresses adorned with delicate bows that sensually drape over the body, revealing hips and thighs. Bias-cut floor-length dresses with lace inserts and satin minidresses with an abundance of plumes are designed for the ultra-confident.
Bird-inspired details make appearances on crystal-encrusted 3D structures fashioned into crop tops and tuxedos (an homage to Marlene Dietrich, one of the designer’s constant muses). Hand-drawn swan wings elegantly positioned across the bust have been meticulously embroidered onto tulle to create a tattoo-like effect. Other feathery moments come in the form of single-breasted jackets bursting with voluminous plumes, while oversized shearling coats and jackets add dimension to the outerwear selection. The daytime pieces also warrant a closer inspection, including low-slung jeans decorated with laser-etched feather motifs, denim miniskirts, and slim-fit leather pants with matching motorcycle jackets.